Would we eat better if cookery programmes were axed from the telly? Almost certainly. Inspiration for the few, oppression for the many: it’s my theory that they set absurdly unrealistic expectations of the meals we should serve up on the table each evening. Creamed this, glazed that, breaded, roasted, toasted, marinated; nothing short of a restaurant-style meal will do.

Most recipe books (written often by same said TV chefs) are just as bad. And, slave to their instructions, we scour the supermarket shelves for expensive and exotic goods. Quick fix 30-minute, nay 15-minute recipes books may pose as more straightforward, but in requiring their own host of unseasonable fare or flavour cheats – curry paste or, worse, ketchup – are merely a milder symptom of the same problem.

A notable exception, I might add, is Rose Elliot, who in many of her exquisite books sets out purposefully to keep things simple. And when she doesn’t, she makes it very clear that the book is aimed at the more advanced and dedicated cook.

So, in my quest for simple and healthy food, I find myself thinking: wouldn’t it be liberating if dinner could be decided on by simply strolling into your local (organic, obviously) greengrocers and asking for a few of the freshest and most delicious local vegetables that week. 

These fresh ingredients swinging pleasingly in our cloth bag, and armed, perhaps, with the odd suggestion of how to rustle them up, we would be free to experiment, add a little protein, and create a dish that doesn’t look quite like a Marks & Spencer’s ad but tastes jolly good and does us wonders too.

Building your confidence to cook lovely food does not come from recipes, but instead from developing a feel and taste for your own concoctions. So my suggestion is to skip Masterchef and seek out a local greengrocers – some do still exist.

And here is a perfect early Spring recipe born of such an experience. From coming home from the greengrocers to sitting down at the table, it will take you no more than 30 minutes, and will serve three greedy people and four with more modest appetites.

Purple sprouting broccoli and rice for early Spring

Ingredients

• 150g brown basmati rice
• 2 tsp butter (or olive oil if you’d prefer)
• 2 shallots
• 2 garlic cloves
• Juice of 1 1/2 lemons
• Two tins of anchovies (MSC – sustainably caught)
• 300g purple sprouting broccoli
• Olive oil
• Parsley

Method:

Heat a large pan of water for the rice. Rinse the rice well under running tap in a sieve and then add to the pan when the water starts boiling. Lightly salt the water, if you choose. (I tend not to – the anchovies will provide salt enough later.)

Trim the ends (very sparingly – the stalks are equally delicious) from the bottom of the purple sprouting. Boil or steam very briefly in a separate pan. If boiling, three minutes will do. If steaming, five minutes are plenty. Drain, blanch in cold water, break into smaller pieces with your fingers and set to one side.

Finely chop the shallots and garlic. Heat butter in a large frying pan, and add the shallots. Squeeze in the juice of one lemon and leave to fry on a very gentle heat for two or so minutes. Then add the garlic.

Drain your anchovies and chop into smallish pieces. Kitchen scissors do the job well (though they will need a thorough wash afterwards). Add these pieces to your frying pan, and stir.

By this point, your rice should be nearly ready. Test it and drain into a sieve when it still has the slightest of bites. Then balance the sieve full of rice over the top of your now empty pan, cover with a clean tea towel and the pan lid, and leave to steam like that for five minutes. Whilst the rice steams, add the cooked broccoli to your frying pan and, again, stir.

Tip the steamed rice back into its pan or into a serving bowl, depending on your level of refinement … Add the broccoli and anchovy mixture. Squeeze in the juice of the remaining lemon half, add a generous drizzle of olive oil (the rice will soak it up), chop in the fresh parsley (your newly cleaned kitchen scissors will be handy here too) and give the mixture a gentle stir until everything is mixed through. Salt and pepper to taste.

If you don’t like anchovies, give them a miss and scatter plenty of parmesan or pecorino shavings on top at the end. (I find a vegetable peeler excellent for making these from a big block.)

If you need more leaves (as I often do), serve on a bed of spinach. If you would likeprotein, poach a fillet of wild salmon to eat on the side and perhaps reduce the proportion of rice (100g is plenty, if you are all eating salmon as well).

Alternatives 

• Add a good drizzle of cream to the anchovies and broccoli a couple of minutes before taking off the heat.
• Serve with wholemeal pasta instead of rice.
• Add white wine rather than lemon juice to the shallots.
• Scatter broken walnuts over the top on serving to add a certain richness to the dish.